The science behind shaving

With millions of men daily appearing in public with rashes, razor bumps, irritated skin and cuts on their face simply because they cannot shave properly, Carmelo Guastella, grooming expert and founder of exclusive London men's salon Melogy, shares his seven steps to achieve the perfect shave.

Having been versed in one blade razoring since the age of nine, Carmelo has taught thousands of men the correct way to shave.

"Every day millions of men wet shave incorrectly and harm their skin - even the latest blades and facial products cannot eradicate the potential for damage and irritation." says Carmelo. "Simply put, if you haven't been taught how to shave correctly, you won't be able to shave!"

Carmelo's Seven Steps to achieve the perfect shave:

Step 1. Check how the hair stands
The more horizontal the hair growth, the greater the problems. Hair growing close to the skin is the main cause of razor bumps, in-growing hair and irritation. Take this into account in your preparation: make your hairs stand proud.

Step 2. Evaluate the thickness
There are three main hair types - fine, medium and coarse. The thicker the hair the greater the resistance to the blade. The coarser the hair, the shorter the blade stroke.

Step 3. Consider the density
The density of beard growth varies across your face. The denser the area of hair growth, the harder it is for the blade to cut it. As the density changes so must your blade speed.

Step 4. Look at your skin type
How the skin reacts to shaving can be as a result of skin type. First determine whether your skin is dry, oily, normal, combination, acne-prone or sensitive, as irritating the skin can destroy its integrity by breaking down its protective barrier and encouraging bacteria. Adapt your preparation to take your skin type into account.

Step 5. Don't cut corners when it comes to preparation
The more time you spend on the preparation, the better the shave. Apply warm water to the face and prepare the beard area with the Melogy Shaving oil which protects the skin from the blade, helps to soften the hair, easing the shaving process as the blade will meet less resistance. Use a bristle brush to smooth, soften and lift the hair, whilst also exfoliating the skin. This will also allow the blade to move more easily, giving a closer shave.

Step 6. Check your shaving technique
Study your beard growth and take into account the direction of the hair, which varies across the beard. It is important to stretch the skin and follow the hair direction, as the primary cause of irritation and razor bumps is shaving constantly against the hair.
Some men are able to shave against the hair growth with no problems while some men cannot. Shave first with the grain, re-wet the face and go across the grain and only if your skin can take it re-wet again and go against. Remember, always rinse the blade under hot water before shaving and between each stroke.

Step 7. Banish post-shave laziness
Once you have completed your shave, apply a soothing, moisturizing oil which will be easily absorbed into the skin, restoring the barrier function lost as a result of shaving, and also slowing down the aging process.

A wet shave is not just about removing facial hair. It is a chance to look after your skin's appearance now and for the future.

Polo to Launch Mobile Commerce

NEW YORK — Ralph Lauren is now available from the palm of the hand.

Taking its philosophy of “merchan-tainment” to a new level, Polo Ralph Lauren Corp. is breaking into mobile commerce — m-commerce — incorporating technology that allows shoppers to buy Polo merchandise from their cell phones.

To realize this, the company is incorporating Quick Response Technology codes in its ads, mailers and store windows, which potential shoppers can scan and download on their camera phones. Once scanned, the site m.ralphlauren.com allows a mobile phone user to enter the world of Ralph Lauren — not just by offering the limited edition 2008 U.S. Open collection, classic polo and oxford shirts, chinos, and even the Ricky bag, but also with exclusive video content and a style guide. The merchandise offering is set to expand in coming months.

“Consumers want flexible and convenient services that are accessible on-demand,” said David Lauren, Polo’s senior vice president of advertising, marketing and corporate communications. “M-commerce is so appealing because you can shop anywhere, anytime.”

Polo is the first luxury retailer to tap into the QR technology, which is already popular in Asia and Europe. Increasingly, U.S. cell phones already come with the necessary reader software.

“With new technologies available there are possibilities to create new experiences for our consumers, especially the younger generations that are so invested in digital technology,” Lauren said.

The site functions are the same as for ralphlauren.com: Shoppers need to type in their credit card information, shipping address and billing address. With cell phone purchases, standard shipping is complimentary.

Tapping into mobile technology vastly expands Polo’s reach. According to CTIA & Jupiter Research LLC, 80 percent of the U.S. population has cell phones, and 25 percent, or about 60.8 million, go online through their phones. Worldwide, 489 million people browse the mobile Web monthly, and the number is set to double by 2011, according to research by eMarketer.

This isn’t the first time Polo is breaking ground with technology. In 2006, the company launched an interactive window concept with touch-sensory technology that allowed customers to shop for merchandise from a screen on Polo store windows, 24 hours a day.

“We are always seeking to break ground with innovative ways of interacting with our consumers,” Lauren said. “This new feature allows us to instantly connect consumers to our brand and products. They could be walking down the street — they see our ad and want to buy the shirt the model is wearing, get style advice or read tournament articles. With our mobile site the consumer can shop the U.S. Open collection, watch tennis videos, locate a store and fully experience the brand — all in the palm of their hand.”

VMAN goes quarterly

(NEW YORK) VMAN, the previously bi-annual male counterpart to international fashion and arts publication V, has officially gone quarterly with its Fall 2008 fashion issue. And lest you ladies think there's nothing in it for you, think again.

The cover boy is VMAN and Ford Model Search Winner Petey Wright, who took the title over more than a thousand hopefuls after two long days of shooting. He shares his Hedi Slimane-shot spread with the equally impressive runners-up, AJ and Adam. Karl Lagerfeld also lends his photography skills to the issue. Curious about Kanye West's foray into fashion? VMAN debuts Pastelle, West's new clothing line, modeled by Kanye himself, Rihanna, and Lupe Fiasco. And if you still need more eye candy, the new face (and body!) of Calvin Klein Underwear, Garrett Neff, is introduced. VMAN 11 Fall 2008 hits newsstands this week.

Skin 101

Skin as an organ: Skin is the largest organ of our bodies. It is the first line of defense of our immune system and our last organ of elimination. Skin is permeable and can absorb many things, but if it is healthy and we're doing a good job of deterring things that are unhealthy then skin can actually help in preventing us from becoming diseased. On the other end of the body's process, anything that has gone in (by consumption, inhalation and absorption) eventually comes out through the skin. Skin is a clear indicator of general health, which is why it is crucial to use skincare products that are, at the very least, not harmful to us -- and, at best, actually good for us.

The skin has five layers in the outermost part known as the epidermis, as well as two layers beneath the epidermis: the dermis and the subcutaneous. Skincare products are meant to affect only the epidermis, and most affect only the outermost layer of the epidermis, the stratum corneum.

Facial skin: Facial skin is very different than that of the rest of the body. First, facial skin is thinner and more delicate than the skin on the rest of the body, and therefore needs to be treated more gently. Second, the pH of facial skin is more acidic than the body. It ranges from about 4.5 – 6.2 on the pH scale, with about 5.2 – 5.5 as optimal pH. The reason for the special acidity of the face is that most of the body's orifices are located on the face. These openings to the body require a special defense against pathogens such as, harmful bacteria, viruses and parasites. This extra acidity, called the “acid mantle,” provides just such defense.

Please note: When we refer to facial skin we really mean an area slightly wider than the face. The term “face” extends down to the neck and includes the region of décolleté. When we treat our skin with products, the area from the décolleté up through the neck and face are what require “facial” or “skin” care products and not “body” care.

Natural protection: Our skin creates its own natural protection. In the world of biology it's called “sebum,” which is more commonly known as “oil”. We all need sebum in our skin because it is nature's protection from environmental damage and aging, and it helps to fend off disease. As with anything in life, too much or too little sebum is not a good thing.

Additional protection: Although we may not think of it in such a positive light at first, the “T-Zone” is an area of additional protection on the face. T-Zone refers to the area of the face from the chin up through the nose between the brows and into the center of/across the forehead, forming a “T”. Because facial orifices are located in this region, more sebum is necessary here to provide extra protection.

Stephen Nolan, BBC News: Time to Dye

“It’s shocking. I can’t stand it. Being fat is one thing, but going grey really drives me mad. I wish I could sort out the lunatics who try to peddle the line “it’s distinguished”. There’s nothing distinguished about it. It’s a sign of things deteriorating, falling apart. The dyes must work. I’ll choose a different make than the one Richard Bacon uses. He should sue,” said Stephen Nolan of BBC.

To help Stephen with his grooming challenge, Chad Murawczyk [Grooming Expert & CEO of MiN New York] was invited to join him on his show. In this segment, Chad demystifies who and when should consider coloring his hair and shares his expertise on what to do. Listen to highlights here.

ProColor by MiN New York provides great in-salon results in 5 MiNutes, while COLOR kits are available to consumers via http://minnewyork.com. For more information on hair color by MiN New York, visit http://MiN.com.

MiN New York on Playboy

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Spotted: The fade

For the past few months the fade has appeared in shoes (Prada) and shirts (too many to mention). Alexander McQueen keeps the concept fresh with his version. Details at MiNNewYork.blogspot.com.